🔗 Share this article

When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end names. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.